Armor Tips

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Revision as of 14:38, 25 July 2019 by Brian (talk | contribs) (Anti-Rust Tips: Added a few.)
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General Tips

Sizing and Fitting

  • It cannot be stressed enough: Get used to wearing your armor BEFORE your first fight. You should NOT be pointing and fiddling with armor on the day of your first fight.
  • This goes for any new piece of modification as well.
  • Do a shakedown a week in advance of any fight if you can. Repeat the day before.
    1. Check your weapon(s)
    2. Armor up.
    3. Walk around.
    4. Hit a pell a few times.
  • Make sure you can armor up and armor down with minimal help. Sometimes squires are scarce. Plan ahead.

Arming Points tips

  • Some people (Jaye) like to use paracord with the core removed.
  • Some people (Brian Chabot) like to use full core paracord with melted ends.
  • Brian Chabot also likes to use 4mm tarred hemp marline with brass aiglets from The Practical Goose (at Pennsic)
  • Many people like heavy leather lacing
  • In the fabric of your arming clothes, *work* the holes rather than punching them. Use an awl or other tapered tool like a marlin spike to work the fibers apart. Brian Chabot thinks Sewn eyelets are pretty solid, but most fighters sew a leather patch and punch holes in that for the lacing points. If you need patches, Nadler Metalcrafts carries them.

Anti-Rust Tips

  • Wipe the sweat and dirt off the armor first then wipe on a rust protecting product.
  • Jaye recommends 3-in-1 machine oil.
  • WD-40 is NOT recommended as it will evaporate. You can use it to repel water, but it isn't good for storage.
  • Brian Chabot recommends Fluid Film as it is lanolin based and good for both steel and leather
  • A historical method is a mix of olive oil and bees wax. Wipe it on and polish like a car wax. This is available from Darkwood Armory under the brand of "Max Wax" This can be used as lip and skin balm in a pinch, too.
  • A variation of the above that is historically plausible and works better is to mix a paste of beeswax and boiled linseed oil. This oxidizes into a rubbery seal. It is also excellent for wood and leather.
  • Put desiccant bags in your armor box. Put a big one inside your helm when you store it.